Once, while running back-to-back trips during rush hour, my car suddenly stalled as I was pulling away from a red light. The cars behind me honked nonstop, and that trip ended up running over time—leaving the customer absolutely livid. When I took it to the shop, I found out the spark plugs should have been replaced ages ago, but I’d kept putting it off. Another time, my rear tire suddenly skidded while taking a turn in the rain. Looking back, the tread had actually worn completely smooth—but since I rode it every day, I hadn’t even noticed. Most delivery riders probably understand this: a motorcycle isn’t just a means of transportation—it’s your livelihood. If it breaks down, your earnings for the day go down the drain, and in serious cases, it could even lead to an accident. This post isn’t about any advanced technical knowledge, but rather a few small maintenance tasks that I’ve found, through my years on the job, to be the most important—and the easiest to overlook.
Let’s start with a basic concept: the biggest difference between food delivery bikes and regular commuter bikes is the “intensity.” While most people ride 10 to 20 kilometers a day, we routinely cover over 100 kilometers; while others stop occasionally at red lights, we’re constantly stopping and starting, accelerating and braking all day long. Add to that the weight of the cargo compartment, insulated boxes, and meals, plus being exposed to the sun and rain all day. All of this causes the engine and various consumable parts to wear out much faster than for commuters. So you really can’t drag out maintenance intervals based on the “normal use” figures in the new vehicle manual—those manuals are meant for people who ride just a little bit each day; we have to adjust our schedule accordingly.
Engine and Consumables: Motor Oil, Spark Plugs, Transmission—Don’t Cut Corners Based on Mileage
Engine oil is the one thing I’m absolutely not willing to skimp on. For a typical commuter car, an oil change might be needed only once every 5,000 kilometers, but with delivery work—which involves stop-and-go driving, prolonged periods of high engine load, and frequent idling—I’ve gotten into the habit of changing the oil every 1,500 to 2,000 kilometers, or roughly once a month. In months when I drive a lot, I’ll change it even more frequently. Besides mileage, you can also rely on how the car feels: if the engine gets louder, the throttle response becomes sluggish, or acceleration feels weak, it’s often the engine oil giving you a heads-up. You don’t need to go for the most expensive grade, but at least choose oil that meets the manufacturer’s recommended viscosity and comes from a reputable source—don’t skimp by using oil from unknown sources. For vehicles equipped with an oil filter, remember to replace or clean it as well. Simply hand over the used oil to the repair shop for proper recycling.
Small parts like spark plugs and air filters are often overlooked: Worn-out spark plugs can cause sluggish acceleration—or even cause the engine to stall completely, like what happened to me once. Generally, spark plugs have a shorter lifespan, though platinum or iridium ones tend to last longer; A dust-clogged air filter restricts airflow and silently worsens fuel economy. The drivetrain is also considered a consumable—scooter drive belts and pulleys, as well as the chains on manual transmission bikes—and once they reach a certain mileage, they’ll affect acceleration and fuel economy. For bikes with chains, remember to lubricate them regularly to prevent dry grinding and rust. The most common mistake beginners make is focusing solely on filling the gas tank without ever taking the bike in for service, assuming that a full tank means everything is fine—when in reality, the engine oil has long since turned pitch black. Another common pitfall is replacing all parts with the cheapest, low-quality aftermarket alternatives to save money; cutting corners on critical components often leads to faster breakdowns and higher costs in the long run. In addition to routine maintenance, once your car reaches a certain mileage (specified in the owner’s manual, usually every few ten thousand kilometers), it needs a more thorough service—such as adjusting valve clearances or cleaning the fuel injection or carburetor system. If you can’t handle these tasks yourself, take it to a repair shop; getting it done right the first time is more cost-effective than letting minor issues drag on. These figures vary slightly depending on the car and the type of fuel, so you should always refer to the manufacturer’s manual and the advice of a trusted repair shop. I want to emphasize just two words: don’t put it off.
There are a few tips for refueling: Delivery vehicles tend to have high fuel consumption, I make it a habit to always go to the same reputable gas station to avoid engine carbon buildup caused by inconsistent fuel quality; I also try not to wait until the low-fuel light has been on for a long time or the tank is nearly empty before refueling—it’s better to keep the fuel pump submerged in fuel to help it cool down, especially in the summer. These are just small habits, but over time, they make a difference in both engine life and fuel economy.
Tires, Brakes, Electrical System, and My Checklist: Taking Care of My Safety and My Income
If engine oil is about saving money, then tires and brakes are about saving your life. With high mileage from food delivery, your tires wear out faster than anyone else’s. You should replace them as soon as the tread wears down to near the wear indicator (that little bump in the tread groove)—don’t wait until you’re skidding in the rain and regret it like I did; Front and rear tires wear at different rates, so check both when replacing them. There’s no need to chase after high-performance tires—for food delivery, durability and wet-weather traction are key. Just tell the shop you’re a food delivery rider with high mileage, and they’ll usually help you pick the right ones. Check your tire pressure yourself once a week, using the values listed on your vehicle or in the owner’s manual. If the pressure is too low, it not only increases fuel consumption but also worsens handling during turns and braking, and makes you more prone to flat tires. If you get a puncture from a nail, a puncture in the center of the tread that isn’t too large can usually be repaired. However, if it’s near the sidewall or has been there for a while, don’t try to save money—it’s safer to replace the tire right away.
As for the brakes, if you hear a “squeaking” sound from the brake pads or if the pedal feels unusually soft or hard, take your car to a shop for inspection—and have the brake fluid checked as well if necessary; Disc brakes and drum brakes have different designs, but the labor cost for replacing brake pads isn’t actually that high. You rely heavily on your brakes in the rain, so this is really not a risk you can afford to take. There’s another component that delivery drivers often overlook: the battery. We often make short trips, let the engine idle, and simultaneously use our phones to charge, run dashcams, or even power heating devices—all of which can quickly drain the battery. If your bike struggles to start in the morning, your headlights are dim while idling, or your horn sounds weaker, it’s time to get it checked. If you ride at night, it’s especially important to make sure your headlights, turn signals, and rear reflectors are in good working order—you need to see the road, and you need to make sure others can see you.
Here’s a handy tip for self-diagnosis: listen to the sounds. A dry, metallic knocking from the engine, or a sudden increase in noise, is usually related to the oil or internal components; a “clunking” sound when pulling away, accompanied by a lack of power during acceleration, is often caused by a problem with the drive belt or pulley; a sharp, metallic grinding sound from the brakes usually means the brake pads are nearly worn down; a “thudding” sound when going over speed bumps, accompanied by the rear end wobbling, usually points to the shock absorbers or loose bolts. If you hear an unfamiliar noise, don’t just ignore it—getting it checked early usually costs very little to fix, but putting it off can often lead to major problems.
Don’t forget seasonal maintenance: Taiwan’s rainy season is long, so before it starts, I make a point of checking the tire grooves, brakes, and chain for rust, and I take the opportunity to add some waterproofing under the seat in the passenger compartment; Summer heat is hard on the battery and the cooling system of water-cooled bikes, so if you see the coolant temperature light come on or notice sluggish acceleration when starting, don’t push it; if you frequently ride along the coast or in humid areas, remember to rinse the underside of your bike often to remove salt and prevent rust. Also, since we carry a cooler on the back of our bike year-round and the rear rack is locked on very tightly, this puts long-term strain on the rear suspension, rear wheel, and bolts. Have a mechanic check periodically to see if anything has come loose.
There’s one more thing that many people are too lazy to do, but that actually makes a difference—washing your car. It’s not just about making it look good; it’s about removing the mud, sand, and grease that get trapped around the radiator, chain, and brakes, ensuring proper cooling. Plus, while you’re washing it, you’ll naturally spot minor issues like oil leaks, loose screws, or cracks in the casing. I usually find time to rinse it down once a week, checking it as I go—that’s how I’ve caught many problems early on.
Having said all that, the real way to save money isn’t to “put things off as long as possible,” but to address minor issues right away. Don’t let a small problem costing a few hundred yuan turn into a major repair costing thousands—or cause your car to break down on the road. Not only would you lose income on that trip, but you might also face customer complaints and have your hours docked. My routine is to stick with one trusted repair shop and keep a record of every service—noting exactly what was replaced and at what mileage—so I don’t miss anything next time. and the shop is less likely to overcharge. I also recommend treating monthly maintenance and consumables costs as a fixed operating expense and deducting them when estimating revenue. That way, you won’t hesitate to get maintenance done when it’s due, and you’ll have a clearer picture of how much the car actually earns each month.
Finally, here’s my own routine: Before heading out each day, I check three things—whether the tires are flat, if there’s enough fuel, and if the brakes feel right; Every week, check tire pressure, listen for any unusual noises from the drivetrain or chain, clean the chain, and make sure the lights are working; every month or at a set mileage, do a full check of the engine oil, spark plugs, air filter, brakes, and battery. Also, keep a tire repair kit, a raincoat, and a sturdy phone mount in the car. You don’t need to memorize this checklist—just stick a copy on the inside of the passenger compartment or set a reminder on your phone. Once it becomes a habit, it takes almost no time at all. Treat maintenance as part of your delivery routine: only by taking good care of your vehicle can you ride safely and make it home. In hot weather, cars—just like people—are more prone to problems. I’ll cover this topic inThat Post About Delivering Food in the SummerWe've talked about this before; if you want to read more real-world driving experiences, check outDelivery CategoriesThe